In 2018, my husband and I decided it was time to leave New York City. We fell in love with a 1720s New England country home and moved to a place full of winding country roads, an annual strawberry festival, and Christmas tree farms—yet still close enough to the city via Metro North for holiday trips to Lincoln Center and spring seasons of the City Ballet. But during the closing, it slowly hit me: where would I go for my weekly silk press? Until then, I had spent my life surrounded by Black communities—born in the Black mecca of Atlanta, living for years in Harlem—where salons knew how to care for my hair texture. Like many Black women, hair care has always been a monthly expense. Now a racial minority in my town, I’m navigating a Black hair care desert.
A few years into homeownership, a mid-pandemic cancer diagnosis (while I was pregnant) changed my hair texture. I went from building a family to early-stage four breast cancer practically overnight—and because the disease had spread to my liver, instead of IV chemo, I’m on oral chemo for life. Caring for my hair now had a new layer of complexity: it had changed from the curls I had known my whole life to something even I found confusing.
Eager for a countryside adventure, I set out to find a local stylist by mapping Vagaro listings, searching #silkpress on social media, keeping an eye out for the “curly hair expert” in a predominantly white salon, and studying client photos in hopes of seeing my texture. After narrowing down the salons with the best reviews, I turned to old-fashioned phone calls—but had no luck (and even encountered some hostility, with replies like “We don’t have anyone on staff who can do your hair” or “No, we don’t do ‘ethnic’ hair.”) When a new salon founded by two celebrated master stylists opened just up the road, I felt like luck was finally on my side. But when I called to inquire, my excitement was met with a vague invitation to “see” what could be done with my hair. (It also left me wondering: can you really be a “master hairstylist” if you haven’t mastered all hair textures?)
This wasn’t the first time I couldn’t find a salon where I lived. New York City definitely has its own Black hair care deserts, but most salons would at least attempt to do my hair. New England: not even an attempt.
In this desert, evenings are spent barefoot in the bathroom, wet hair dripping down my back and arms, while I attempt blowouts, braids, and Bantu knots. YouTube and TikTok connected me to tutorial videos that taught me how to achieve a blowout and a silk-ish press that lasted one day. I made other mistakes, too: I tried to “chase the heat” with a rat-tail comb, only to realize the plastic would melt, leaving burnt bits stuck throughout. At times I felt slightly empowered, at others incredibly frustrated (after all, a silk press is a simple hair service in the grand scheme of things).
Occasionally, I still try to find a salon in town to call home. If I make it all the way to the shampoo bowl, the results still leave a lot to be desired. I’m back to scheduling silk press appointments around my 100-mile round trips to Manhattan (my salon is in Chelsea), where I’ve watched them expand their ability to care for African American, textured, thick, dense hair with trained stylists. Hopefully soon, when it comes to my town, this gold coast desert landscape will transform into an oasis.
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQs Silk Press Trials and Tribulations in a Black Haircare Desert
What is a Black haircare desert
An area with few or no salons or stores that serve Black hair needs You may have to drive an hour or more for a stylist who knows textured hair
What is a silk press
A silk press is a heat styling method that straightens natural hair using a blow dryer and flat iron It gives a sleek straight look without chemical relaxers
How is a silk press different from a relaxer
A relaxer permanently breaks your curl pattern with chemicals A silk press is temporaryyour curls come back after you wash your hair
Why is getting a silk press harder in a haircare desert
Few stylists are trained in textured hair so appointments book up fast or require long drives Products you need may not be sold locally either
Can I learn to do a silk press at home
Yes With practice and the right tools many people do their own Start on low heat and watch tutorials from stylists who work with natural hair
What tools do I need for a silk press
A quality blow dryer a flat iron with adjustable temperature a heat protectant a widetooth comb and sectioning clips
Whats the biggest mistake beginners make
Using too much heat It causes heat damage that can permanently loosen or kill your curl pattern
What temperature should my flat iron be
Most textured hair does well between 300F and 380F Fine or damaged hair needs lower heat coarse healthy hair can handle more Always use a heat protectant
Why does my silk press revert so fast
Moisture is the enemy Humidity sweat and steam from showers make it frizz and curl back up Wrap your hair at night and avoid getting it wet
How do I make a silk press last longer
Sleep with a satin scarf or bonnet wrap your hair avoid heavy products and stay out of humidity when you can
Should I wash my hair before a silk press
Yes Always start with clean deepconditioned hair Product buildup makes the press stiff and greasy
What is a heat training effect
After repeated silk presses some people notice their curls loosen over time This can be temporary or with too