Merit has built a reputation for thoughtful simplicity. “Pared-back” is a thread that runs through its entire collection—think streamlined formulas, easy-to-use cosmetics, and a look that feels modern and elevated. When Retrospect launched in 2024, fragrance might have seemed like an unexpected move for a brand known mostly for minimalist makeup, but the soft, quietly complex eau de parfum quickly became a hit, cementing Merit’s place in fragrance as well. Clearly, consumers connected with effortless perfume, too.

Two years later, Merit is introducing its second fragrance: New Wave l’extrait de parfum. This time, master perfumer Dominique Ropion and perfumer Meabh McCurtin set out to create a fragrance that feels classic and enduring, steering clear of fleeting trends—an approach similar to their process with Retrospect.

“Retrospect was a massive moment that exceeded all of our expectations and continues to be a huge part of the business,” Merit CMO Aila Morin tells Vogue. The biggest lesson, she continues, was the need for choice—understanding that fragrance is deeply personal and Retrospect wouldn’t be for everyone. “We didn’t want to make a new fragrance just for the sake of it. We like to say Retrospect and New Wave are cousins, not sisters—they share that maturity but go about it in quite different ways.”

Merit New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum
Save to wishlist
Save to wishlist
Merit
New Wave l’extrait de parfum
$92
MERIT

Why We Love It: New Wave has exceptional staying power because the extract contains a substantial concentration of fragrance oil—30%, to be exact. It’s also exceptionally complex, with 21 unique notes, allowing the perfume to evolve over time on the wearer’s skin and clothes. Top notes of pink pepper and angelica seed quickly give way to frankincense, patchouli, cedarwood, and grassy greens. Meanwhile, notes of benzoin, tobacco accord, and vanilla bean sit in the background, softening the overall solar, spicy profile.

Notes: Pink Pepper, angelica seed, ylang-ylang, patchouli heart, frankincense, musk, cypriol, vetiver, tobacco accord

This Smells Like: Freshly lit incense in a swanky hotel.

Photo Courtesy of Merit
Photo Courtesy of Merit

New Wave is no copy of past successes. Instead of repeating familiar formulas, Ropion and McCurtin focused on why certain scent structures, like amber, remain timeless—and how to give them new life. “The fragrance is built around a reinterpretation of Ambre 83, one of perfumery’s great amber structures,” Ropion and McCurtin tell Vogue. “We kept its foundation of benzoin, labdanum, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean and olibanum, then introduced more brightness, transparency and movement through pink pepper, angelica, a honeyed-golden floral accord and ylang-ylang. Together, these materials create what we call a Neo Gold.”

Described as “unconventionally constructed,” New Wave brings together incense, woods, tobacco, vanilla, tonka, and musks for a layered and intriguing base. Despite its richness, the scent is designed to feel fresh and radiant—a “solar” effect that’s more about sensation than any single note. “In this case, solar is less about a specific ingredient than a sensation. It is a feeling of warmth, radiance, and light on skin,” they continue.

Inspiration came from a mood board sent by CMO Aila Morin, filled with golden hues that sparked the idea of translating emotion into scent. “We don’t try to translate visual elements literally into notes,” Ropion and McCurtin continue. “Instead, we try to understand the emotions and values behind the brand. [The moodboard] expressed optimism, sensuality, and self-assurance. Those qualities became more important than any specific ingredient.” Over two years of refining and reworking, the perfumers deepened New Wave’s complexity, with their collaborative dynamic at the heart of the process. Ropion, an iconIn the fragrance world, McCurtin was mentored by someone whose chemistry expertise brought something truly special to their partnership. New Wave l’extrait de parfum’s mood board. Photo: Merit

“Dominique played an important role in shaping my approach to perfumery—he taught me the importance of structure, discipline, and rigor, but also gave me the confidence to trust my own instincts,” said McCourtin. “There’s a natural openness in the creative process. We can challenge each other’s ideas freely because that foundation of trust already exists. What I appreciate most is that the goal is never to impose one vision over another. It’s a collaborative process in which the fragrance gradually becomes something greater than either person’s individual perspective.”

Morin doesn’t believe in narrowing the audience for New Wave. “It could be for the Retrospect woman when she wants to feel a bit more sensual, maybe she’s going out to dinner; or it could be for an entirely new customer who never quite connected with Retrospect,” she says, noting that signature scents are making a comeback after years of ever-expanding fragrance collections. “If New Wave becomes your signature scent, we’re just as happy with that as we are if it becomes something you reach for when you want to feel a certain way.”

New Wave is available to Vogue Shopping readers exclusively for 24 hours before its official launch on October 22. Save to wishlistSave to wishlistMeritNew Wave l’extrait de parfum$92 MERIT

Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about Meet New Wave Merits Second Fragrance

1 What is Meet New Wave
Meet New Wave is the second fragrance release from the brand Merit Its a unisex scent created to feel fresh modern and easy to wear every day

2 What does Meet New Wave smell like
Its a fresh clean scent with a watery slightly citrusy opening that dries down to a soft skinlike finish Think crisp air and clean laundry rather than heavy florals or spice

3 Who is Meet New Wave for
Anyone Its designed as a unisex fragrance so it works for all genders and ages Its especially good for people who prefer light subtle scents over strong ones

4 How is it different from Merits first fragrance
Merits first scent is warmer and more grounded while Meet New Wave is brighter and fresher If the first one felt like a cozy evening this one feels like a clean morning

5 Is it a strong fragrance
No Its intentionally light and close to the skin Most people will only notice it when theyre near you which makes it office and crowdfriendly

6 How long does it last
Typically 46 hours on skin Because its a lighter scent you may want to reapply midway through the day if you want it to last longer

7 How should I apply it for the best results
Spray 23 times on pulse points like your wrists neck and behind your ears Avoid rubbing your wrists together as that breaks down the scent faster

8 Can I layer it with other fragrances
Yes Its light fresh profile layers well with warmer or woody scents Try it under a richer fragrance to add a clean airy quality

9 Is it suitable for sensitive skin
Its formulated to be gentle but everyones skin is different Do a small patch test first especially if you have known sensitivities and avoid spraying directly on irritated skin

10 Whats the best season or occasion for it
It shines in spring and summer and works well for daytime the office or casual outings That said its clean profile makes it wearable yearround