It’s a brisk day off the coast of Scotland’s Isle of Islay. Our boat skips across greenish waves, with woolly clouds gathering overhead. White-tailed eagles appear and disappear, and the sun keeps hiding from us. But as we pass red stags grazing on small islands—having swum there from the shore—and chubby harbor seal pups lounging on rocks, the quiet bay where we land feels still.

There, our captain, Gus Newman—a lifelong Islay native—presents us with a bounty of scallops he hand-dived for at 6 a.m. that morning. The sun finally emerges as he scatters them across a hot grill brushed with chili butter. He’s saved a few to crack open and serve fresh, in two ways. First: seasoned only with salt water, cut into pieces to swallow raw and quick, with the plump roe still attached. Second: the “Islay way,” with a generous splash of Ardbeg whisky. A lunch of fat crab legs and lobster claws follows, accompanied by more “wee drams” of Ardbeg.

The smoky, peaty malt whisky of Islay is woven into island life, with its 10 distilleries and the annual Fèis Ìle, a whisky-focused cultural festival. Ardbeg Distillery—owned by The Glenmorangie Company since 1997, which is part of Moët Hennessy under LVMH—has been crafting its signature smoky single malt for over 200 years, attracting a global cult following and countless pilgrims to Ardbeg each year. Once, there were 23 distinct distilleries on the island; now there are 10, and Ardbeg is undoubtedly the most famous.

Their latest venture? Ardbeg House, a luxury 12-room hotel perched at the edge of Port Ellen, a quaint town on this Hebridean island off Scotland’s west coast. Every day at 6:15 p.m. (a nod to Ardbeg’s founding year, 1815), guests are invited to the hotel’s Islay Bar for whisky hour, to toast the day with Ardbeg’s small-batch, secret recipe “Badger Juice,” which lingers like toffee. During my stay on Islay, I never miss the chance to sample these delightful wee drams, exploring the House’s collection of over 500 whiskies.

Staying at Ardbeg House is an initiation into centuries-old traditions—and not just for whisky lovers. The island’s history and the creativity of its residents are literally woven into the hotel’s fabric. The distinctive Ardbeg “A” is ornately cast in iron and greets you at the entrance. Designed in collaboration with Russell Sage Studio, the uniquely and vibrantly designed suites and rooms feature work from more than 20 Scottish artists and makers. I stayed in the Fèis room, inspired by local music and song traditions, with a bed made from a deconstructed piano. In the Monster room, crocodile skin-like Fromental wallpaper—one of 24 bespoke prints—pays homage to the local mythical creature, the “Islaygator” (also immortalized in Ardbeg’s limited edition Alligator whisky from 2011), complemented by a massive, emperor-sized four-poster bed adorned with metal serpents. In the Smoke room, a leather headboard resembles rows of peat, with a secret compartment hiding two miniature bottles of Ardbeg Ten. Thanks to Sage’s boundless design imagination and a touch of Scottish humor, the atmosphere is both sophisticated and playful.

“We want to represent the community here on Islay,” Sage explains of his design ethos, as we chat in the gilded, boldly printed private dining room beneath a whisky-library-style sideboard displaying the distillery’s finest bottles. “Just this morning, I bought a piece of art from a woman across the road that I plan to put up in the lobby. This is just the beginning, and it will grow. You can come back, stay in a different room, and discover something new and charming every time. I feel emotional about leaving, even now!”Photo: Sim Canetty Clarke
Sage, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, started his own fashion line before shifting to interiors with a vintage feel and intricate details. His work can be seen in places like The Savoy, the art-filled Fife Arms, and LVMH’s Glenmorangie House, which has a Klimt-inspired design. At Ardbeg, the whimsical decor becomes even more enjoyable after a few drinks.

Photo: Sim Canetty Clarke
“We’re excited to get the smoker and grill going,” says Ellie Goss, director of hospitality, referring to the custom-built machine in the courtyard. Made by distillery technician Daniel Brandson, it will soon be used to barbecue seafood for guests. “We want Islay locals to see Ardbeg House as part of their community—a place to drink, eat, relax, and appreciate the heritage we all cherish, along with everything we have in store.” After my visit, residents are invited for a community weekend to explore and celebrate in the refreshed space.

The 31-seat Signature Restaurant at Ardbeg House.
Photo: Sim Canetty Clarke
The Islay Bar at the House, which remained open during renovations, builds on a popular local spot. It features a grass-green marble bar top and a custom chandelier shaped like a boat. Each evening, live Scottish music on the fiddle and whistle accompanies snacks and a special Ardbeg version of The Last Word cocktail, called “The Word on the Pete.” In the 31-seat Signature restaurant, metal kelp sculptures adorn the walls, and the room centers around a large, metal-scorched fire table surrounded by upcycled vintage chairs. The food is just as bold: we enjoy plump scallops with sea herbs and saffron-caviar butter sauce, a rich lobster duo, comforting Arbroath smoked haddock chowder, and sticky date pudding with brandy snaps. Breakfast is a leisurely affair, featuring hearty smoked Scottish trout with poached eggs, and warm porridge swirled with—what else?—cream and whisky. In the rooms, guests find a custom chocolate bar from Islay Cocoa, speckled with cardamom and lemon, named Fàilte—Gaelic for welcome.

“It’s a true Ardbeg immersion here,” says Caspar MacRae, Ardbeg’s president and CEO. “Our hospitality is inspired by the local people and culture, engaging all your senses. Whether you’re a whisky lover or not, you’ll leave as a fan of Ardbeg and Islay.”

Photo: Sim Canetty Clarke
Venturing further into Islay, my group and I explore ancient peat bogs with our knowledgeable guide, Dougie MacTaggart. Stacks of dark peat, which gives whisky its smoky flavor, dot the landscape. I try cutting peat myself using MacTaggart’s family heirloom, a cow horn-handled tairsgear, to lift a wedge. Later, we visit Kildalton Church, a 13th-century ruin housing one of Scotland’s finest early Christian crosses. Nearby Claggain Bay is a rugged, unspoiled sandy beach, perfect for a taste of Ardbeg Kildalton, a limited edition whisky inspired by the stunning surroundings. One misty morning, we head into the forest by Kilnaughton Bay for yoga with Philippa McCallum. We finish with meditation on the white sands, facing the Carraig Fhada lighthouse and the distant Irish Mourne Mountains at sunrise.

The highlight, though, is Ardbeg’s own distillery, where we meet the charismatic and knowledgeable head of whisky creation, Bill Lumsden—who Beyoncé once consulted for her own whisky brand. House guests can take private distillery tours daily at 4 p.m., a lively journey through Ardbeg’s storied history and cult following. We wander through vaulted rooms filled with whisky barrels and sample both classic and experimental expressions. One is the award-winning Seann Chreag, a biscuity, treacle-like whisky aged in bourbon casks. Another trial whisky is thick and smooth.Spicy with a red berry finish—Lumsden is confident it will go into production. By the end, I’m convinced to join the world-famous Ardbeg Committee, with its 40,000 members, to stay updated on their exclusive bottlings.

After three days of tasting whiskies and having increasingly odd dreams of mythical beings within its quirky walls, I leave Ardbeg House. A sign at the small Islay airport check-in is clear: you can only pack up to seven bottles of whisky in your luggage. I pass through, happily jingling and rustling with Islay cocoa bars and the few mini bottles I managed to find tucked away around Ardbeg. That’s the Islay way.

Photo: Sim Canetty Clarke

Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and clear FAQs about the new hotel transforming whisky tourism on a small Scottish island

General Beginner Questions

Q Whats so special about this new hotel
A Its a hotel on a small Scottish island that focuses entirely on the whisky experience featuring bold lively decor and hosting nightly tastings for its guests

Q What is a wee dram
A Its a Scottish phrase for a small serving of whisky perfect for tasting

Q Do I have to be a whisky expert to stay here
A Not at all The hotel is designed for everyone from complete beginners to seasoned whisky lovers The tastings are a fun and easy way to learn

Q What can I expect at the nightly tastings
A You can expect a social and informative session where youll sample a selection of whiskies learn about their flavors and origins and hear interesting stories from the hosts

Q Is the hotel only for drinking whisky
A No while whisky is the main theme you can also enjoy the beautiful island scenery local food and the unique vibrant atmosphere of the hotel itself

Practical Booking Questions

Q How do I get to the hotel on a small island
A Youll likely need to take a ferry from the Scottish mainland The hotels website should have detailed travel instructions

Q Are the nightly tastings included in the room rate
A This varies by hotel You should check their booking information Some include a welcome dram while tastings might be a separate bookable activity

Q What should I wear to the tastings
A The atmosphere is lively and casual so comfortable smartcasual clothing is perfectly fine Theres no formal dress code

Q Is the hotel familyfriendly
A This depends on the hotels policy Many whiskyfocused hotels are adultoriented so its best to check directly if children are welcome

Q Can I buy the whiskies I taste at the hotel
A Most likely yes These hotels often have a small shop or can arrange for bottles to be purchased and shipped for you

Advanced Enthusiast Questions

Q How does the lively decor enhance the whisky experience
A Unlike