Thousands of looks have walked the runway across 440 fashion shows and presentations in the four fashion capitals during the Spring/Summer 2027 season, each featuring clothing and accessories for buyers to consider for the upcoming season. Some of these items will never go into production. Others are guaranteed to sell out. Skirts dominated, with buyers expecting to see plenty of Prada midi and Dries Van Noten poster print skirts on the racks — and on the sidewalks — next summer. Anthony Vaccarello’s gilded farewell collection for Saint Laurent is also a highly anticipated eveningwear bestseller. And, continuing their hot streak, Celine and Chanel have buyers excited about next season’s ready-to-wear and accessory sales. The SS27 shows also revealed emerging trends for the year ahead. Maximalism made a comeback, as embellishments, graphic tees and structured bras dominated many of the buzziest offerings, pushing past seasons’ minimalist lean to the sidelines. Color emerged as one of the most important trends, says Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s SVP of the fashion office and store presentation, who also highlights the season’s craftiness and romanticism, joining her fellow buyers in pointing out the abundance of lace and broderie anglaise, from The Row to Chloé. Meanwhile, from New York to Milan, waists were cinched tighter, and shoes got even freakier, as consumers’ bodies and budgets continue to shrink. Still, buyers are optimistic. This spring/summer season was noted for its commerciality, as designers sought to offer a creative spin on clothes they felt confident would sell, a possible nod to luxury’s slow rebound. While most buyers cited Paris as their favorite fashion week — home to the biggest brands, it’s also the most lucrative for many retailers — New York was a close second, with many praising the city’s energy, optimism and newness. “We leave the season and the four cities satisfied and confident that we have enough new trends, high-quality products, and exciting evolutions, as so many houses continue to successfully reinvent themselves,” Fargo says. Below, fashion buyers share their top picks from this season’s shows. Chloe King, women’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Saks: New York Favorite shows: Jil Sander, Prada, Dries Van Noten, Celine, Rick Owens, Chanel, Simone Rocha, Proenza Schouler. Favorite items: The graphic animalia coat at Proenza Schouler, the candy shop of embellishment on skirts, car coats and accessories at Dries Van Noten, the ballooning yellow dress at Jil Sander, the satin A-line and pleated skirts at Prada, the mismatched but masterful layering at Marni. Matthieu Blazy’s offering of 83 different shoe styles on the Chanel runway is a fashion fanatic’s dream. New soft structured bags at Bottega Veneta, Loewe and Gucci looked great. Noted trends: Bra tops, lean capris, the omnipotent skirt, an infusion of color and emotional embellishment in accessories, a soft pliability in handbags — either in folded styles or drawstring pouches. Sheerness continues less as a means to titillate, but instead brings a sense of lightness to the season. Bestsellers-to-be: Celine’s jazz shoe, the new frame clutch at Alaïa, and the instantly collectible gilded Saint Laurent collection. Key takeaway: The season was a reminder that while we crave the escape and fantasy of glamour, it is also possible to ground that glamour in reality. That pragmatism was refreshing and impeccably executed at Dries Van Noten, Celine, Simone Rocha, and Loewe. A lightening up was another major theme of the season, with Chanel and Bottega Veneta proving innovation and craft does not need to feel overworked or unapproachable. As fashion’s purpose is to always reflect the times, it was exciting to see a cohort of more subversive brands capture a significant part of the fashion conversation with their transportive, table-shaking shows. April Hennig, president of Moda Operandi: New York Favorite shows: Conner Ives, Kallmeyer, KhaiRalph Lauren, Altuzarra, Saint Laurent, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Celine, Valentino, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Ferragamo.
Favorite items: Prada’s gem-embellished skirts, Conner Ives’s piano shawl dresses and sets, and the embellished tops at Dries Van Noten.
Noted trends: Novelty graphics are clearly having a moment, from the slogan tees at Conner Ives to the New Yorker pieces at Carolina Herrera and the custom poster prints at Dries Van Noten. Knee-length skirts—often paired with bra tops, as seen at Prada, Etro, Marni, Fendi, and Des_Phemmes—are a key category. Bold primary colors made a strong return, whether worn head-to-toe in monochrome or blocked in unexpected combinations, especially in New York and Paris, while Milan leaned more toward pastels. An East-meets-West aesthetic has carried over from the resort collections, and the embrace of lightweight lace and crochet at Chloé and The Row felt fresh.
In accessories, the waist is a major focus, through belts and cummerbunds, while beading and fringe continue to bring novelty bags to life. Overall, styling felt more undone and closer to how women actually dress—less fussy and more grounded than in past seasons.
Bestsellers-to-be: Trunkshows are giving us clear insight into next season’s must-haves. Kallmeyer’s grid-beaded jacket and skirt are runaway hits, with a record-breaking number of pre-orders. From New York, Ralph Lauren’s patterned silk jackets, Carolina Herrera’s New Yorker mini dress, Khaite’s ruffle trims, and Conner Ives’s plissé separates are also top performers. From Europe, Dries Van Noten’s poster prints are a definitive collector’s item, the skirts at Prada are zeitgeist-defining, and Saint Laurent’s gold pieces are instantly iconic. The striped pull-on pants at The Row and the embroidered-cuff plaid shirts from Valentino are perfect examples of the “elevated essentials” our customer loves. In accessories, Bottega Veneta’s slip-on flats and Gucci’s triple horsebit corset belts have It-item energy.
Key takeaway: Fashion is fun again. The mood is expressive, eclectic, and maximalist.
Shelia and Renee, buying team at Maison Dongliang: Shanghai
Favorite shows: The Row, Dries Van Noten, Our Legacy, Khaite, Auralee.
Favorite items: The Row SS27 look 2, a relaxed cotton-linen dress layered over silk Bermuda shorts with Victorian-inspired lace trim; and Dries Van Noten SS27’s range of lightweight parkas and gold-tone, vintage-style floral jewelry.
Noted trends: Maximalism is emerging, but through a much more relaxed lens. Rich color, decoration, and texture are returning—lace, embroidery, sequins—but they’re integrated into lightweight fabrics, softer colors, and relaxed silhouettes. Glamorous but casual.
Bestsellers-to-be: The Row’s minimalist tote with thin straps, refined knit tops, and straight-fit pants. The washed red four-pocket jacket at Our Legacy (like look 11). Dries Van Noten’s embroidered tops and gold-tone jewelry. The ultra-light, distressed vintage-style bomber at Enfants Riches Déprimés (like look 1).
Key takeaway: This season opened a new way of doing “glamour”—not through excess, but through precision and lightness. The Row’s antique lace cardigan over a relaxed camisole and drawstring pinstripe pants is a good example (look 24)—a simple base paired with an exquisite lace piece. Dries Van Noten’s embroidered men’s top in pale colors with flowing silk cargo pants (look 2), and Khaite’s single-breasted cinched shirt with a drawstring-back silk overlay and translucent embroidered skirt (look 2), point to the same idea—extreme material contrast, but handled with restraint.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer at Net-a-Porter: London
Favorite shows: Conner Ives, Magda Butrym, Erdem, Simone Rocha, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Schiaparelli, Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, Maison Margiela, Valentino.
Favorite items: The turquoise beaded shorts from Loewe, the oThe range includes clutches from Saint Laurent and floral pumps from Dries Van Noten, along with Comme des Garçons Girl x Vans sneakers and colorful, intricately beaded tops from The Row.
Notable trends: This really felt like the season of the skirt. Skirts were everywhere, especially knee-length styles, which gave the silhouette a slightly sexier, more confident feel. Sea-inspired shades like aqua blue and turquoise appeared as a recurring theme across all cities, creating an ethereal, mermaid-like mood. This was complemented by crochet, fringing, shells, and pearls. Another standout trend was mixed and clashing prints, creating a more playful approach to styling.
Future bestsellers: Dries Van Noten will have incredible success next season, and I can already see the poster print skirts becoming a bestseller. There’s also a pump with clashing prints from the collection that I think will be incredibly popular with our customers.
Isabelle Fine, women’s fashion director at Le Bon Marché: Paris
Favorite shows: Dries Van Noten offered glamorous, cinematic inspiration; Celine, in a different vein, was an extremely desirable, free, and elegant Parisian collection without falling into rigid perfection; Dior gave a sublime show defined by silk chiffon and a sense of lightness, even on the most structured pieces; Prada’s great fusion of both creators’ codes; at Sacai, Chitose Abe reconnects with her fundamentals — hybridization, layering — while infusing a more feminine and emotional dimension.
Favorite items: The knee-length skirt (brought back into the spotlight by Prada); lingerie-inspired pieces, such as bras and bandeau tops, with plenty of transparency and lightness across ultra-light tops, dresses, and tailoring; the lace and crochet (notably at The Row); the statement belt, tied to the strong focus on cinched waists.
Notable trends: The affirmation of a visible femininity centered on texture and construction. A focus on craft: crochet, lace, fringe, embroidery, beads, and tactile surfaces. Transparency, lightness, and layering. Ruffles and gathering served femininity. The return of the buckle and the cinched waist.
Future bestsellers: The knee-length skirt; the bomber jacket or the lightweight jacket; the fluid dress with subtle transparency; the lingerie top; the soft bag.
Key takeaway: The grand return of a free and airy femininity. Collections are regaining desirability and personality.
Julie Leymarie, co-founder of Le Mill: Mumbai
Favorite shows: Zimmermann was my favorite collection this season. I love women designing for women, and there was a real understanding of how women want to dress; Alaïa stayed true to what makes the house distinctive — the body, proportion, and the way fabric shapes a silhouette; Chloé felt very true to the house, but there were enough unexpected details to make the collection feel fresh.
Favorite items: At Alaïa, the bra top was one of the details that stood out, and for Le Mill, the separates are the more interesting takeaway. Strong skirts and sculptural tops offer a way to bring Alaïa’s approach to proportion into a wardrobe without needing to buy into a complete look. Chloé’s lace and broderie anglaise pieces felt distinctly Chloé, while the rainwear brought something more unexpected. Jacquemus’s Tutti Frutti bags were among my favorite accessories.
Notable trends: Statement skirts appeared in so many different forms this season, from fluid and lightweight to voluminous, sheer, and heavily embellished; what made them interesting was the way they were styled. There were bras, corset details, slip dresses, and sheer layers across several collections — the most interesting interpretations weren’t necessarily the most revealing. Lightweight construction and sheer layers; a lot of designers were working with lighter fabrics and less restrictive construction. Peplums and defined waists appeared across collections, offering a way to create shape without making everything fitted.
Future bestsellers: In Mumbai, fabric and construction matter as much as appearance. Pieces that feel special but are still comfortable and easy to wear are likely to stay in a customer’s wardrobe longer. A statement skirt, an interesting blouse, or a distinctive bag can add something to what a customer already owns, and often feels like a more useful purchase than a complete runway look.
Key takeaway: With so much change happening within the houses themselves, I think it will be interesting to see which collections maintain their identity over the next few seasons. For now, the most exciting buying opportunities are pieces that feel distinctly of their designer, have something unexpected about them, and still make sense for the way my customer wants to dress.
Marco Raccuia, head of buying at Rinascente: Milan
Favorite shows: Prada was one of the season’s most stimulating collections from a product perspective; the skirt became a canvas for experimenting with proportion, materials, and styling. Dior, under Jonathan Anderson, continues to build a distinctive universe of lightness, decorative details, and unexpected silhouettes; I was particularly interested in the way creativity and accessories interact. Saint Laurent reaffirmed the power of a highly recognizable vision. Michael Rider’s Celine appeals to me for its approach to the contemporary wardrobe. Givenchy, under Sarah Burton, deserves attention for its balance of precise tailoring, femininity, and product relevance.
Favorite items: Skirts, first and foremost, for the range of interpretations seen at Prada and their potential to refresh the wardrobe. Then, bags with recognizable shapes but not necessarily overt logos, shoes that can change the attitude of an outfit, and decorative accessories. I was also drawn to relaxed tailoring, fluid shirts, and lightweight layering pieces.
Noted trends: The first is the renewed importance of the skirt. The second is lightness, not only in fabrics but also in the approach to dressing: less rigidity, more freedom to combine. I also see a renewed interest in shoes and accessories as tools for building personal identity. Finally, there is an interesting tension between precise tailoring and more spontaneous, decorative, or sensual elements.
Bestsellers-to-be: I would watch skirts, distinctive footwear, bags with a strong silhouette, and accessories that can transform an outfit without requiring an entirely new wardrobe. Fluid shirts, lightweight jackets, and versatile tailoring also have interesting potential. From a buying perspective, a bestseller is not necessarily the most spectacular piece on the runway. It is the one that combines identity, desirability, and the ability to fit naturally into real life.
Key takeaway: SS27 is a season in which personality takes center stage again. The most interesting collections are not simply trying to impose an aesthetic; they offer different ways to interpret personal style. From a commercial perspective, the challenge is to create products that are recognizable without being predictable, desirable without feeling unattainable, and contemporary without becoming disposable.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa: Munich
Favorite shows: Prada, Saint Laurent, The Row, Celine, Dries Van Noten, Khaite, Dior, Simone Rocha.
Favorite items: The skirt emerged as one of the most compelling pieces of the season, with Prada delivering a masterclass in how to reinterpret this wardrobe staple with freshness, ease and modernity. Bustiers and bra tops, particularly at Chloé, offered a confident, sensual take on femininity, alongside romantic dresses and elevated separates. The Row invited us into a world of travel and collected treasures, pairing impeccably cut pants with flowing white tops, antique lace, crochet, fringed textiles and layered beaded necklaces.
Noted trends: Romantic femininity was a defining thread, but with a more confident and less conventional expression. Lace, sheer fabrics, lingerie-inspired dressing, vintage florals and peplums were offset by voluminous proportions, unexpected layering and a richerThe interplay of color and texture. More broadly, the season moved away from formulaic dressing toward a more individual, instinctive approach to style, where contrasting references and personal expression matter more than a single aesthetic. Bestsellers-to-be: We see strong potential in skirts, especially styles with distinctive proportions, thoughtful detailing, and multiple styling options. Bustiers, romantic tops, dresses, and elevated separates should also perform well, along with occasionwear that brings a fresh take on glamour through texture, movement, and color. Key takeaway: SS27 feels like a season in which fashion is reconnecting with the emotion of getting dressed. The most successful collections did more than present beautiful clothes; they offered a perspective, a feeling, and a world that customers could imagine themselves inhabiting. Arrow Arrow Bella Kelly, womenswear and accessories buyer at Liberty: London Favorite shows: Saint Laurent was a standout for me. I loved how those ideas were brought into some of the trends we’re seeing in the market—utility, midi skirts, maximalism, lace, and jacquards—but expressed in such a bold and distinct way. Dries Van Noten also really stood out. The printed silks and satins felt particularly relevant to our customer, while still being completely true to the brand’s DNA. Favorite items: Our new brand launch, Carelli, had an amazing development of ready-to-wear this season, particularly the silk jacquard sets. Roame, another new brand for us, had a fantastic collection, and their gold jacquard dress with a fringe belt was a real favorite. Maison Essentiele, our UK-exclusive partner, also stood out with fringe tops and skirts. I loved the way they tapped into the growing demand for an alternative, fashion-led approach to bridal. Noted trends: Maximalism is a key trend for me—and one I personally love. There’s a hint of eccentricity and individuality to it that feels particularly exciting for SS27. Silk jacquards in rich, saturated colorways, midi skirts, funnel necks, and fringe were all particularly strong. Bestsellers-to-be: Dôen really speaks to the current mood around femininity. I loved its use of beautiful silk colorways and lace, with some real hero pieces that I can see becoming bestsellers. Alemais had a fantastic collection that captured its creative approach to maximalism. The embroidery, jacquards, and rich tones felt very strong for SS27. Key takeaway: There was a real sense of brands taking more risks and expressing their individual creativity and DNA, rather than following a single trend. That feels particularly relevant to the Liberty customer: she wants fashion with personality, pieces that feel distinctive and unexpected, but that she can connect with and make her own. Arrow Arrow Buyer responses have been edited for length and clarity. More from this author: From Industry Affair to Content Machine: The Evolution of the Re-See Consumers Want Freaky Shoes. Brands Are Stepping It Up In the Queue for John Galliano’s Zara
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQs Vogue Business SpringSummer 2027 Global Buyer Report
General Questions
1 What is the Vogue Business SpringSummer 2027 Global Buyer Report
Its a research report that surveys fashion buyers and retailers worldwide to show what they plan to stock buy and focus on for the SpringSummer 2027 season
2 Who publishes it
Vogue Business the businessfocused arm of Vogue Its aimed at industry professionals rather than consumers
3 Who is it for
Buyers merchandisers brand strategists designers and anyone who needs to understand what retailers will be stocking next season
4 Whats the difference between a buyer report and a trend report
A trend report tells you what looks or styles are emerging A buyer report tells you what retailers are actually spending money onso its about commercial intent not just aesthetics
5 When does it come out
Buyer reports for a season typically publish months ahead of that seasonso a SpringSummer 2027 report would likely land in 2026 giving buyers time to plan
Getting Started
6 How do I get a copy
Usually through Vogue Business directlyeither as a subscriber a oneoff purchase or sometimes as part of a corporate membership Check their website for current access options
7 Is it free
No its typically a paid report or available through a Vogue Business subscription
8 Im new to the industry Is this report useful for me
Yes Its a good shortcut to understanding how real buyers think even if youre not making purchasing decisions yet
9 Whats the best way to read it if Im short on time
Start with the executive summary and the key stats or charts Then dig into the categories relevant to your role
Using the Report
10 How can this report help my business
It helps you align your product range pricing and marketing with what retailers actually want to buyreducing the risk of overproducing things nobody orders
11 Can I use it to decide what to design
Yes but with caution It shows demand signals not a guarantee Use it alongside your own sales data and customer feedback