On the islands of Crete and Santorini, ancient frescoes show girls and monkeys gathering flowers—saffron crocuses, whose bright red stigmas, once dried, become the world’s most precious spice. The Greeks and other early civilizations used saffron for flavoring, dyeing (Homer described Dawn as a “saffron-robed” goddess), medicine, and purification. The Chinese believed it warded off bad energy, while ancient Romans scattered it in the streets to mask unpleasant smells.

Today, saffron is making a comeback in beauty and wellness—think Donovan’s 1966 hit Mellow Yellow—with a wave of modern products reviving this ancient ingredient. Matiere Premiere has released an intense extrait version of its Crystal Saffron perfume, capturing the spice’s elusive scent, often likened to hay and myrrh. Arnaud Poulain, founder of Les Eaux Primordiales, describes saffron differently: “It’s very metallic—cold and hot at the same time. It gives power to a fragrance. Raspberry alone can be heavy, but with saffron, it explodes.” Antonin Khalife of Henry Jacques adds that saffron brings an “elegant volatility” to the brand’s rose-scented essence (Victoria Beckham’s San Ysidro Drive also pairs rose and saffron). Given saffron’s reputation as an aphrodisiac, it’s no surprise these scents feel sophisticated and seductive. While I haven’t bathed in saffron-infused mare’s milk like Cleopatra, I’ve enjoyed lighting Nerrā’s The Candle, with notes of saffron, honey, and neroli, before mindlessly scrolling through Instagram.

But saffron is more than just a scent—it’s a versatile problem solver. After discovering kumkumadi tailam, a traditional Ayurvedic elixir with saffron, Michelle Ranavat created an oil-based serum that’s now her brand’s star product. Each bottle contains saffron from 45 flowers, rich in carotenoids (which fight free radicals) and proven to reduce inflammation. “I think of it as vitamin C’s smarter sister,” Ranavat says. Meanwhile, Shrankhla Holecek of Uma Oils is finalizing a saffron-and-honey mask.

Saffron can also lift your mood. A French pharmacist recommended Pileje’s Melorian tablets—made with patented saffron extract Safracetin for “emotional overload”—to a friend during Paris Fashion Week. Lyma, Lucy Goff’s brand, recently launched a supplement with affron, a saffron extract shown in studies to ease anxiety, depression, and insomnia. No wonder Ranavat and Holecek drank saffron-infused milk before bed as children. Lyma’s formula also includes a food-based adaptogen used by astronauts to boost metabolism. Similarly, Sakara’s Metabolism Bite gummies contain Supresa, a saffron extract meant to curb stress-related eating.

Still, I’d never turn down saffron milk cake—or any dish made with the spice. During the post-pandemic haze, I attended a long-delayed dinner party, a Persian feast like our host’s childhood meals. Among the many dishes was tahdig—a golden-crusted mound of saffron rice. I remember taking a second helping in that candlelit room, surrounded by dear friends, and feeling deeply content.Ailing, too. — Kate Guadagnino

(Note: The original text was already clear and natural, so no significant changes were needed. The only adjustment was correcting the spelling of “Guadagnino.”)