The “wrong shoe” theory, made famous by stylist Allison Bornstein, encouraged us to embrace the unexpected by pairing contrasting pieces for a surprisingly harmonious look. This fall, the concept expands beyond footwear with the introduction of the wrong coat theory.

A Guide to the “Wrong Coat Trend” Look

– The Statement Collar: J.Crew standing collar blazer, $268
– The Sporty Skirt: Prada light Re-Nylon pencil skirt, $1,120
– The Easy Huggies: Brilliant Earth luxe diamond huggie earrings, $1,275

Drawing from last fall’s runways, there are many examples of balanced contradiction. Prada paired barn jackets with fringe skirts, Miu Miu showcased pajama pants under wool coats, and Ralph Lauren layered shimmering gowns under soft cardigans. Each look redefined dressing by blending polished and playful elements.

This season continues to explore this style paradox. Tory Burch reimagined the modern cool girl with jersey sweatpants and faux fur coats. At Saint Laurent, slouchy leather jackets were paired with voluminous skirts, playing with scale and proportion. Miu Miu again embraced sporty chic, elevating zip-ups with pencil skirts.

These combinations work by challenging the eye. The “wrong” element makes you pause and reconsider texture and proportion from a new angle. It’s not about rebelling but refining your personal style through unexpected pairings.

Here are six interpretations of the wrong coat theory with tips for mixing and matching your fall outerwear in fresh ways.

The Sporty Jacket and Pencil Skirt
Miu Miu’s confident woman shines in classic silhouettes with a sporty twist. A track jacket and refined pencil skirt balance playful and poised. Finish with heeled mules for an elevated look.
– Wales Bonner Mantra jacket, $745
– Prada light Re-Nylon pencil skirt, $1,120
– Staud Wally mules, $350
– Tory Burch large Romy bucket bag, $495

The Tailored Blazer and Embellished Maxi Dress
At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner modernized formal wear by pairing a black-tie gown with a tailored blazer. The mix of structure and softness creates a perfect balance of dressed-up ease. Pop the collar and wear brogues for a night of dancing.
– Dries Van Noten printed satin maxi dress, $2,325
– J.Crew standing collar blazer, $268
– Brilliant Earth luxe diamond huggie earrings, $1,275
– Jeffrey Campbell Thatch Oxfords, $215

The Faux Fur Coat and Track Pants
Whether heading to brunch or a neighborhood walk, follow Tory Burch’s lead by elevating everyday jersey sweats with a plush faux fur coat. Pointy loafers add structure to make the look intentional.
– Nour Hammour Elsa wrap coat, $2,565
– Tory Burch Japanese jersey sweatpants, $495
– Scarosso Ester monk strap shoes, $445
– Kallmeyer Cordo Touble tassel belt, $420

Moto Jacket & Voluminous Skirt
Saint Laurent played with proportions this season, pairing oversized skirts with slouchy leather jackets for a lesson in contrast. Recreate this look with Banana Republic’s aviator jacket, Zara’s midi skirt, and Alexis Bittar’s mosaic earrings for a sculptural finish.
– Banana Republic distressed flight jacket, $698
– Vince sleeveless jersey top, $108
– Alexis Bittar Brut Mosaic statement earrings, $275
– Zara voluminous midi skirt, $129Fall/Winter 2025

Valentino Fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Gorunway.com

The Fancy Jacket and Casual Jeans
In Valentino’s crimson world, elegant jackets with bow details were paired with light-wash jeans and checkered Vans. This shows that even the most sophisticated jacket can be perfectly matched with something completely different.

– Valentino bow-detail tweed jacket: $4,700 at MYTHERESA
– Levi’s Low Loose jeans: $108 at LEVI’S
– Tory Burch Kira turnlock mini bag: $350 at BLOOMINGDALE’S
– Valentino Garavani Vans authentic checked sneakers: $590 at NET-A-PORTER

Altuzarra Fall/Winter 2025
Su Mustecaplioglu / Gorunway.com / Courtesy of Altuzarra

The Utility Jacket and Sheer Dress
For days that start at the office and end with late-night dinners, balancing practicality and appeal is essential. A functional coat worn over a romantic dress beautifully combines both styles. Try Sir’s off-the-shoulder maxi dress under Loro Piana’s linen jacket, and complete the look with Sophie Buhai’s sculptural collar necklace and Me+Em’s chocolate bag.

– Sir Elia maxi dress: $555 at MYTHERESA
– Loro Piana oversized linen jacket: $3,100 at NET-A-PORTER
– Sophie Buhai Oaxaca necklace: $1,200 at NET-A-PORTER
– ME+EM Clever Commuter bag: $745 at ME+EM

Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and concise FAQs about the Wrong Coat Theory

Beginner Definition Questions

Q What is the Wrong Coat Theory
A Its a fashion concept that encourages you to intentionally wear a coat that seems wrong for the occasion or outfitlike a formal coat with jeans or a puffer vest over a dressto create a more interesting and personal style

Q Why is it called the Wrong Coat Theory
A It gets its name from the idea of breaking the rules Youre choosing a coat that feels instinctively wrong or mismatched according to traditional fashion norms to create a look that feels uniquely right for you

Q Who is this theory for
A Its for anyone feeling bored with their winter wardrobe from fashion beginners looking to experiment to style experts wanting to push their creativity

Benefits Why Bother Questions

Q Whats the main benefit of using this theory
A The biggest benefit is breaking out of a style rut It makes getting dressed more fun adds personality to your look and helps you see the pieces you already own in a new light

Q Will this actually keep me warm or is it just for looks
A It can do both The goal is to combine style and function For example you might layer a chic but thin trench coat over a chunky sweater using the trench for style and the sweater for warmth

Q Does this save money
A Yes absolutely Instead of buying a new perfect coat for every occasion you learn to creatively style the coats you already have making your wardrobe feel much larger and more versatile

Common Problems How to Avoid Them

Q Im worried Ill just look messy not stylish How do I avoid that
A The key is to maintain one element of intentionality If your coat and outfit are very different keep your shoes simple and neat or wear minimal accessories This anchor keeps the look deliberate

Q Whats the biggest mistake people make when trying this
A Forgetting about proportion A very long oversized coat can overwhelm a petite frame while a short boxy coat might not balance a full flowy dress Always consider the scale of the pieces