Vegan leather isn’t just for vegan brands anymore—it’s everywhere. But what exactly is it? The answer is more complex than simply being cruelty-free. While some see it as a sustainable alternative to animal hides (which it can be in certain cases), most vegan leather is actually made from synthetic materials like plastic. Here, we explore the pros and cons of vegan leather—whether it’s a passing trend, part of the greenwashing movement, or a genuine solution for fighting climate change.
### What Is Vegan Leather?
The term “vegan leather” can be confusing, but it’s simple at its core. Traditional leather comes from animal hides, primarily from cows in the beef industry, though it can also be sourced from pigs, sheep, snakes, horses, and other animals. Vegan leather, or faux leather, mimics the look and feel of real leather using synthetic or plant-based materials like mushrooms, pineapple leaves, cactus, cork, and apple peels. However, most vegan leather is made from petroleum-based plastics like polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU). As long as the material isn’t derived from animals—even if it’s bio-based, like shrimp exoskeletons—it’s considered vegan.
### Vegan Leather in Fashion
The fashion industry has embraced alternative leathers, from fish skin to pineapple leaves to cork. High-end brands like John Galliano, Prada, and Christian Dior have experimented with fish leather, a practice with centuries-old roots in Indigenous cultures. Meanwhile, brands like Nanushka and Hugo Boss have committed to fully vegan leather alternatives.
### Faux vs. Real Leather
For those adopting a vegan lifestyle or simply exploring plant-based options, faux leather provides an alternative to traditional animal hides. Real leather undergoes an extensive process: the hide is salted, soaked in calcium oxide, tanned, and treated with fats and oils to enhance softness and durability. The tanning process gives real leather its distinct earthy smell and flexibility over time.
Tanning methods vary—some use harsh chemicals like chromium, which pollutes waterways and poses health risks to workers, while others rely on vegetable tanning with natural materials like tree bark, which is safer and more eco-friendly. Well-maintained genuine leather can last decades.
Vegan leather has evolved beyond cheap plastic imitations. Plant-based alternatives (though still struggling to scale for mass production) are gaining popularity, with brands like Stella McCartney leading the way. However, most vegan leather remains fossil fuel-based, especially in fast fashion. This isn’t the environmental win many assume—plastic-based vegan leather often has a shorter lifespan, ending up in landfills or donation centers faster than real leather. Plus, unlike natural leather, it doesn’t biodegrade.
While both traditional and vegan leather have their drawbacks, the debate continues over which is the more sustainable choice.Both traditional and faux leather production involve chemicals. PVC releases pollutants and toxic substances, while PU leather, though less harmful than PVC, still relies on fossil fuels. For truly eco-friendly vegan leather, natural fibers are the best choice.
Which Option is Better?
Plastic-based vegan leather (PVC and PU) still harms the environment, especially when fast fashion encourages disposable clothing habits. If you’re avoiding leather for ethical reasons, consider plant-based alternatives instead.
On the other hand, traditional leather has a high carbon footprint, largely due to cattle farming. However, you can make more sustainable choices:
– Opt for high-quality vintage leather.
– If buying new, choose brands that use regenerative farming and vegetable tanning.
– Care for your leather items and pass them on rather than throwing them away.
Neither vegan nor traditional leather is perfectly sustainable yet, but making an informed choice—whether plant-based or animal-derived—can help reduce environmental harm.