Few things cause that little flutter of excitement quite like seeing “formal attire” on an invitation. First comes the thrill of having a reason to dress up—then the slight panic of wondering what exactly that means.
The rules can get a little fuzzy, especially with all the variations of formalwear people talk about. For example, “semi-formal” is often used interchangeably with “cocktail,” and “beach formal” might pop up for destination weddings.
But it’s not just weddings or galas that call for formal wear these days. We’re living in the era of lavish birthdays, glamorous holiday parties, and niche-themed soirées—many of which ask for a polished look. To help make sense of it all, here’s a guide to understanding formal attire.
What exactly is formal attire?
Simply put, “formal attire” usually refers to evening events. It’s considered a step below black tie or the much rarer white tie—unless the host specifies otherwise. (Black or white tie requirements are typically spelled out clearly on the invitation.)
That said, formal wear still demands a certain level of seriousness and respect. “It’s a way to honor celebratory or significant occasions like weddings, confirmations, funerals, state dinners, and diplomatic events,” says Amanda Jane Valentine, a luxury fashion consultant who has dressed celebrities like Lady Gaga, Kendall Jenner, and Hailey Bieber. “How we dress speaks volumes before we even say a word or enter a room. Formal attire amplifies that message, reflecting social awareness, hierarchy, and class.”
Dakota Johnson’s ankle-length black gown is a perfect example of formal attire.
Do’s and don’ts for women
At a minimum, women should choose dresses that fall well below the knee—often floor-length or ankle-length is most appropriate. If a dress isn’t your style, a sharp, tailored suit works beautifully for both men and women. Think of the chic Dior tuxedo Carrie Bradshaw wore in the opening of the second Sex and the City movie—complete with platform stilettos. Jumpsuits with capped sleeves or thick straps, or full ball skirts like Kendall Jenner’s Met Gala look, are also great options.
Fabrics to choose
Unless you’re at a beach event, avoid casual fabrics like cotton-poplin or gauzy linen, which can look out of place in traditional formal settings. Instead, opt for more elegant materials such as tulle, duchess satin, or crepe de chine. Embellishments aren’t mandatory, but they can help you stand out. Sequin beading and delicate embroidery are common, though feathers and fil-coupé also make appearances from time to time.
While elegance is key, Tbilisi-born designer David Koma points out that formalwear still leaves room for personal expression. “Traditional ideas of sophistication remain timeless, but there’s been a shift toward more diverse and inclusive representations of beauty and femininity,” he explains. “Designers are embracing new techniques and perspectives to meet evolving tastes.”
Attention to detail is essential in formal dressing—that includes grooming and accessories. Ideally, every stitch, seam, and embellishment is carefully chosen to create a look that’s both refined and empowering.“The wearer,” Koma explains.
Formal Attire Shoes and Accessories for Women
When it comes to accessories for formal outfits, clutch bags are typically the go-to choice. They’re designed to tuck neatly under your arm while you mingle, offering just enough room for your evening essentials. For standout styles, think of Judith Leber’s playful, Swarovski-embellished clutches in unique shapes, or Nina, who has been crafting elegant bags and shoes from luxurious materials like satin since 1953. A small top-handled bag is also appropriate, as long as it matches the level of sophistication required.
For footwear, stilettos are a classic option, but don’t overlook the comfort and practicality of a shorter kitten heel—especially if dancing is on the agenda. Flats are perfectly acceptable too, provided they are well-maintained and convey polish and elegance. As business style coach Nikki Venus notes, “It’s not just about looking nice; it’s about communicating status, respect, and the importance of the occasion.”
When in Doubt, Ask
If you’re unsure what to wear, it’s always a good idea to check with the host. In fact, experts encourage it. “Hosts often have a theme or specific interpretation of the dress code, so confirming your outfit choice is highly recommended,” says Valentine. “It helps avoid the embarrassment of being under- or overdressed.”
Do’s and Don’ts of Formal Attire for Men
For men, the guidelines for formal wear are often clearer, as they’ve been established for a long time. “The rules for traditional men’s formal attire in the Western world have remained largely unchanged since the early 20th century,” Valentine notes.
Formal attire for men typically means a tuxedo (especially for “black tie optional” events) or a dinner suit in navy, charcoal, or black. A cummerbund or vest (as part of a three-piece suit) is optional but welcome. The suit or tuxedo should be a matching set from top to bottom, worn with a crisp white button-down shirt and dress shoes. Cufflinks are optional, and a belt should not be worn.
Hailey’s short cocktail dress and coordinated accessories are a great example of semi-formal attire.
Semi-Formal Attire for Women
So what exactly is “semi-formal attire”? In short, it’s a step down from black tie but still elegant. “It’s ideal for cocktail parties, some weddings, or networking events,” says Venus.
When in doubt, check with the host, but semi-formal usually allows for a cocktail dress, a tailored jumpsuit, or stylish separates. “Hemlines are typically midi-length—between cocktail and tea-length, meaning above the ankle and below the knee,” Valentine explains. She adds that semi-formal occasions offer a chance to wear “interesting shoes that won’t be hidden under a floor-length gown.”
Semi-Formal Attire for Men
For men, a dark suit is the most refined semi-formal option, and a tie is not required. Dress trousers—not jeans—are a must. Other possibilities include a smoking jacket, blazer, loafers, and accessories like a pocket square.
The one essential? A button-up shirt. “It strikes the right balance between casual and formal,” says Valentine, who also suggests having fun with color: “Semi-formal events are often daytime affairs, so lighter shades and pastels work well.” She recommends linen and cotton for summer events, and flannel or velvet for winter.
Elizabeth Taylor and Stewart Granger in a scene from the 1954 film Beau Brummell.
Archive Photos/Getty Images
The History of Formal Attire
The history of formal wear is long and rich, rooted in aristocratic and military traditions. According to Jovani, “These two influences have sha…Formal wear today has been shaped by everything from fabric choices to silhouettes and colors. Traditional elements have been adapted to modern trends, creating a timeless style. Its origins can be traced back to 19th-century Europe and America, with George Bryan “Beau” Brummell—often called the first menswear influencer—playing a key role. A noted dandy and friend of the Prince of Wales, Brummell pioneered the style we now recognize as formal wear.
The upper class began wearing this refined attire for evening events, favoring dark colors like black and blue. Men wore corsets and short dresses over slim trousers, while women also adopted similar styles. Over time, formal wear evolved from its almost theatrical beginnings—complete with powdered wigs, lavish outerwear, and hosiery—into double-breasted coats and striped trousers. The 1920s brought a shift toward simplicity, influenced by World War I and the women’s suffrage movement, which saw hemlines rise.
By World War II, formal attire looked nothing like it had a century earlier during the Regency era. Designers like Coco Chanel revolutionized fashion with innovations such as the “little black dress,” and Christian Dior introduced his iconic “New Look.” The growth of ready-to-wear clothing and department stores made evening wear more affordable and accessible, moving it beyond the wealthy elite. This accessibility helped establish dress codes as a social norm, especially for special occasions.
What remains unchanged is the importance of showing respect for the event and the host through clothing. As Valentine notes, “It’s common for the host of a formal event to want to be the best dressed, so it’s wise to confirm your outfit choice accordingly. Dressing appropriately is a delicate balance, but putting thought into your attire is a meaningful way to show respect and enthusiasm for the host’s efforts.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and clear FAQs about formal attire written in a natural tone
The Vogue Guide to Formal Attire FAQs
Beginner Questions
Q What exactly is formal attire
A Its the highest level of dress code for social events For men this typically means a tuxedo For women it means a fulllength evening gown
Q Whats the difference between black tie and white tie
A Black tie is formal a tuxedo and floorlength gown are standard White tie is ultraformal it requires a tailcoat for men and a very elegant often more elaborate floorlength gown for women
Q Can I wear a short dress to a blacktie wedding
A Generally no A floorlength gown is the safest and most traditional choice A very fancy cocktaillength dress might be acceptable for some modern events but when in doubt go long
Q Do I have to wear a black tuxedo
A Not necessarily While black is the classic and most common choice midnight blue and even white are also acceptable and stylish options
Q What kind of shoes should I wear
A For men patent leather oxfords or elegant loafers with a tuxedo For women heels are standard but elegant flats or dressy sandals can work if youre more comfortable
Advanced Practical Questions
Q Are jumpsuits acceptable for blacktie events
A Yes A sophisticated welltailored jumpsuit in a luxe fabric like silk velvet or crepe is now a widely accepted and fashionable alternative to a gown
Q What are the benefits of owning a tuxedo versus renting one
A Owning one ensures a perfect fit higher quality fabric and timeless style Its a great investment if you attend multiple formal events Renting is costeffective for a onetime occasion
Q Im not comfortable in a gown What are my other options
A Besides a jumpsuit you could consider a elegant separates like a luxurious silk blouse with a full tailored skirt or wideleg trousers The key is the fabric and sophistication