Prep style is making a comeback, according to trend forecasters. The classic American look—born in mid-century country clubs and immortalized in 1980s movies—is back in the air. A 17-year-old I know spends weekends hunting for vintage polo shirts, and Luca Guadagnino is adapting Bret Easton Ellis’ American Psycho—that pretty much sums it up.

If prep does return to the runways soon, Thom Browne won’t be surprised. “I’ve always lived in that world because I love its timelessness and ease,” he says. “I like real clothes worn in real ways—nothing too fussy. And as for sustainability, these pieces last forever.” Just don’t call it a trend.

Browne’s new collections for men and women feature crests that embody the prep lifestyle, embroidered with tennis rackets, a swimmer, an anchor, and “1965”—the year he was born. Some pieces, like a handknit argyle cardigan, a sleek green Cordura rain jacket, or Bermuda shorts, could easily fit in at country clubs or pool parties. Even the jeans are crafted from selvedge denim at Japan’s finest factory—proof that no one obsesses over American style quite like the Japanese (they even have a term for it: Amekaji).

Yet despite expanding the TB repertoire, Browne remains devoted to tailoring, especially his signature gray suits, custom plaid tweeds, and silk mogadors. Staying on theme, one gray skirt suit featured a maillot-style corset, while other suits took fandom to extremes with trompe l’oeil bikini embroidery.

In other news, the Hector bag—shaped like a dog—celebrates its 10th anniversary with new variations. Palladian window prints nod to Browne’s latest project: renovating an 18th-century house in upstate New York.