Within minutes of posting my first Instagram story from São Lourenço do Barrocal, the messages started flooding in: “My favorite place.” “Best hotel in the world.” “So many memories here.” The reaction surprised me—this isn’t one of Portugal’s typical tourist hubs. It’s not in Lisbon or Porto, not in the famous Douro Valley wine region, nor along the Algarve’s glamorous coastline.
Instead, the 40-room farmhouse hotel sits quietly in rural Alentejo, just two hours south of Lisbon. As Portugal’s largest yet least populated region, Alentejo often flies under the radar—but São Lourenço do Barrocal is putting it on the map. The estate embodies everything that makes this area special: its unhurried rhythm, natural beauty, and deep-rooted traditions. It also serves as a perfect base for exploring, with hands-on experiences and nearby attractions.
The Soul of Alentejo
Driving south from Lisbon, the landscape shifts to rolling golden plains, olive groves, and cork oak trees. Alentejo’s raw beauty unfolds inland with pine forests and ancient woodlands, while salt pans shimmer near the coast. Whitewashed villages and hilltop towns like Évora and Monsaraz rise from the land, their cobbled streets steeped in history.
A Family Legacy
Spanning 2,000 acres, São Lourenço do Barrocal has been in the same family for generations. “To understand Alentejo, you must taste it,” says owner José António Uva. “Our slow-cooked stews, sausages, and wines tell our story.” Here, terroir and tradition matter—like the ancient Roman-style talha wines. A visit to the estate’s 37-acre winery isn’t just about sipping; it’s about learning the craft, meeting the makers, and tasting under the shade of holm oaks.
The Heart of the Table
“And then there’s the food,” Uva adds. “Simple, generous, and tied to the land.” Dishes like garlicky açorda or slow-cooked lamb stews reflect Alentejo’s agricultural roots. Meals are meant to be shared, never rushed. The hotel’s farm-to-table restaurant highlights local flavors—acorn-fed pork, artisanal cheeses, and rustic breads—with Chef José Júlio Vintém honoring traditions in dishes like tender veal cheeks and migas.
Beyond food and wine, the estate offers horseback riding, olive grove strolls, and organic garden tours, inviting guests to fully embrace Alentejo’s quiet magic.Explore the grounds or nearby villages by cycling along scenic trails, birdwatching to spot local wildlife, or even trying your hand at beekeeping if you’re interested in sustainable practices.
So why has Alentejo stayed off the radar for so long? “The region’s history and geography have kept it from developing as quickly as other parts of Portugal,” explains Uva. “With vast farmlands, sprawling estates, and a scattered population, it has preserved much of its timeless charm. Alentejo is diverse and expansive—to truly appreciate it, you need to experience its different landscapes and their unique qualities.” Now, as new hotels open, especially along the coast, travelers are discovering Alentejo’s rich history, untouched nature, and renowned food and wine.
São Lourenço do Barrocal is just ten minutes from São Pedro do Corval, the heart of Alentejo’s ceramics tradition. Here, family-run workshops craft handmade pottery from local red clay. Egidio Santos, the village’s last master potter, still shapes and paints each piece entirely by hand. A short drive away lies the medieval village of Monsaraz, perched on a hilltop with sweeping views of the plains and Alqueva Lake below. Encircled by ancient stone walls, its cobbled streets wind past artisan shops, galleries, and cozy cafés tucked into whitewashed houses trimmed in blue. At the center stands Monsaraz Castle, once a strategic fortress, now a breathtaking viewpoint.
Uva also recommends visiting Estremoz, famous for its Saturday market. “It’s a treasure trove of fresh produce, cheeses, cured meats, antiques, and collectibles—everything from ceramics and copperware to books and farming tools,” he says.
For a deeper dive into Alentejo, stop in Évora, the region’s cultural heart. This UNESCO-listed city blends Roman, Moorish, and Portuguese influences within its ancient walls. Highlights include the Roman Temple of Diana, the eerie Chapel of Bones, and a grand medieval cathedral overlooking the city. Its narrow streets, lined with whitewashed houses and lively cafés under orange trees, buzz with youthful energy thanks to its historic university and a growing creative community drawn to its slower pace and rich heritage.
While the Algarve’s beaches attract crowds, Alentejo’s coastline remains a favorite local escape, especially in villages like Comporta. Just an hour from Lisbon, Comporta offers pristine beaches and a relaxed vibe. The landscapes are stunning—golden rice fields, sand dunes merging into coastal lagoons, and pine and cork forests teeming with wildlife.
Comporta Beach.
Photo: Getty Images
For those wanting to fully embrace Comporta’s natural beauty…Nestled in a nature reserve, Quinta da Comporta is the perfect getaway. This eco-conscious retreat features beautifully designed accommodations that blend seamlessly with the landscape. Guests can stroll through pine forests, cycle along scenic trails, enjoy spa treatments, or simply unwind by the pool. With a focus on sustainability and local craftsmanship, it’s an idyllic escape for those seeking relaxation in a stylish, nature-inspired setting—just a short drive from the charming village of Comporta.
The lobby of Quinta da Comporta.
Photo: Dominique Ricci
The pool at Quinta da Comporta.
Photo: Dominique Ricci
While Quinta da Comporta offers a peaceful, nature-focused retreat, Sublime Comporta delivers a more luxurious, contemporary experience. Surrounded by pine forests, the property blends modern elegance with thoughtful design, featuring sleek, minimalist architecture and villas that complement the natural surroundings—even the gym, complete with Pilates reformers and a boxing ring, is partially open-air. Sublime Comporta boasts three on-site restaurants, plus a beachside dining spot accessible by shuttle. The resort is also expanding with 43 new villas on a 126-acre estate across the road, set to open by 2026.
Villas at Sublime Comporta.
Photo: Courtesy of Sublime Comporta
Sublime isn’t the only sign of Comporta’s evolution. Portugal’s trendsetting hospitality group, JNcQUOI, has been instrumental in the area’s upscale transformation—starting with its high-end boutique, Fashion Clinic, in 2023. Soon after came JNcQUOI Deli Comporta, designed by JPMayer, and JNcQUOI Beach Club, a collaboration with Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen. The partnership continues with the much-anticipated JNcQUOI Club Comporta resort, opening in 2028—the same year Six Senses plans to debut its own property in the area.
The Fashion Clinic store in Comporta.
Photo: Lourenco Teixeira de Abreu
For a quieter coastal escape, Mélides offers wilder, more secluded beaches—likely what first attracted Christian Louboutin and Vincent Van Duysen, both of whom own homes here. But with the recent opening of Louboutin’s stylish boutique hotel, Vermelho Melides, the crowds may not be far behind.