Irenisa may not shout for attention with flashy designs, but its quiet elegance and mastery of comfort and texture are undeniable. Season after season, the brand refines its craft, creating garments that feel increasingly effortless and luxurious. Think billowing trousers that exude sophistication and drop-shouldered coats that glide on with ease. This is thanks to the exceptional pattern-making skills of designers Yu Kobayashi and Yuji Abe, who bring their expertise from prestigious backgrounds—Kobayashi honed his craft at Yohji Yamamoto, while Abe worked with the minimalist Tokyo brand Support Surface.

During a recent showroom presentation, the designers revealed the secrets behind their latest collection. A standout piece was a leather jacket made from thin horsehide bonded with jersey, offering a robust look with the lightness of a chore coat. Abe explained, “We aim to challenge fixed ideas, transforming the perception of leather into a new form of beauty.” Similarly, their wool trousers and jackets, hand-pleated by a Kyoto specialist, feature a unique crinkled texture that remains intact even after washing—a technique exclusive to one factory in Japan.

The collection also delves into the fluidity of gender, inspired by the gender-bending performances of Japan’s Takarazuka musical theater troupe. While the extravagance of Takarazuka was toned down, subtle hints of androgyny emerged in the designs, such as wide-legged trousers that wrap asymmetrically, resembling skirts or luxurious Thai fisherman pants.

Irenisa’s strength lies not only in its beautiful designs but also in its ability to make clothes that feel exceptional on the body. This season’s striking lookbook casting added an extra layer of allure, setting the brand apart from others in the Japanese fashion scene. With its impeccably tailored jackets and innovative fabrics, Irenisa’s challenge isn’t just to attract buyers but to captivate them, turning heads and sparking curiosity. If these pieces can entice shoppers to try them on, they’re sure to win hearts—and sales.