Let’s start with the name. The “salmon sperm” facial—known for its hydrating, plumping, and anti-aging effects—gets its name from the tiny fragments of DNA extracted from salmon sperm, also more politely called polynucleotides. Injected with a needle or cannula, the formula’s moisture-binding properties offer major benefits for the skin, primarily boosting hydration for a noticeably dewier glow.
The treatment gained popularity thanks to Kim Kardashian (who also helped “normalize” $2,000 full-body MRI scans and vampire facials). More recently, Jennifer Aniston and Charli XCX have been spotted as fans. But what really convinced me to look into it was hearing from Vogue’s own global beauty and wellness director, Jessica Diner, who casually mentioned it’s her absolute favorite treatment.
I’ve never been drawn to Botox or fillers (though I’ll never say never), but this felt like a more approachable entry into aesthetics—maybe because it uses a natural substance rather than a synthetic one. When Jess offered to connect me with Clinic Dr Dray in South Kensington if I wrote about it, my curiosity about smoothing out fine lines quickly outweighed any hesitation.
Dr. Benjamin (ultra-French and ultra-charming) assured me during my consultation that the salmon DNA treatment works for all skin types and is especially great for dry or dehydrated skin—music to my ears. It also helps with sun damage, uneven tone, and even chronic conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis.
I’d heard polynucleotides could cause bruising, but Dr. Benjamin explained that their method—using a cannula on just four points instead of multiple needles—minimizes downtime. After numbing cream was applied, he injected the formula beneath each eye, along the cheekbones, and near the corners of my mouth.
Full honesty: it hurt. The feeling of a tube moving under my skin was deeply unpleasant, but each injection lasted only about 30 seconds, so I powered through. I kept my eyes shut, but my friend (there for moral support) turned visibly pale, suggesting the needle wasn’t small. Dr. Benjamin recommended a follow-up within six weeks for optimal results, then just twice a year for maintenance.
Now, the cost. At Dr Dray, the 30-minute session leaves you $1,000 lighter for a full face. Even with just two treatments a year, that’s steep for many. But if you can swing it? It works.
The results aren’t instant—I’d nearly forgotten about the treatment until people started complimenting my skin weeks later. My face looked fresher, almost bouncier. My brutally honest sister even said my under-eyes looked better. After the second session, Dr. Benjamin was right: my skin tone and texture improved noticeably. Now, I’m just figuring out what to cut from my budget to afford it twice a year.Would I do it again? If I could afford it, definitely. Otherwise, I’ll stick to eating salmon—it’s packed with vitamin E and omega-3s, which are great for your skin—and keep up with my moisturizing routine.