The Fall/Winter 2026 menswear season begins today in Florence with the Pitti Uomo trade show, before moving north to Milan Fashion Week Men’s. This season promises plenty of excitement, featuring notable guest designers, an influx of international talent, and the return of major names.
“Florence and Milan continue to solidify their roles as central hubs for creative fashion and menswear, where identity, experimentation, and industry are in constant dialogue,” says Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI). “Menswear is a highly important sector for the Italian fashion system. Amid broader industry challenges, it is demonstrating greater resilience. While this isn’t a full recovery yet, it represents a softening of the contraction and relatively stronger export performance compared to other segments.”
Here are the key brands, shows, and events to watch this season.
Pitti Uomo
Pitti Uomo returns for its 109th edition from January 13 to 16, gathering over 750 brands from around the world. This season’s theme is “motion,” reflecting how menswear continuously evolves, intersecting with performance, travel, and everyday life.
Paris-based designer Hed Mayner will take one of three guest designer slots, bringing his architectural silhouettes to Florence for the first time. Mayner launched his namesake brand in 2015, debuted at Paris Fashion Week Men’s in 2017, and won the Karl Lagerfeld Award at the 2019 LVMH Prize. Previous guest designers include Martine Rose and Raf Simons.
“Hed never ceases to surprise us with the delicate balance he achieves in every piece, effortlessly blending contrasts: poetry and comfort, freedom and precision, intellect and craftsmanship,” said Francesca Tacconi, special events coordinator of Pitti Immagine, in a statement. “For all these reasons and more, we can’t wait to welcome Hed Mayner to Pitti Uomo this January and discover the project he is creating for his Florentine debut.”
Pitti Uomo has gradually expanded its exhibitor lineup to include design talent from outside Europe, particularly Japan. Satoshi Kuwata, winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize for his brand Setchu, made his runway debut at Pitti in January 2025, while Issey Miyake staged an impressive show at last summer’s fair at the Villa Medicea della Petraia. This season sees a fresh influx of emerging Japanese talent.
The remaining two guest designer slots will go to poetic Japanese menswear designer Shinyakozuka and Soshiotsuki, the 2025 LVMH Prize winner. Launched in 2015, Shinyakozuka is a sizable business with around 50 stockists in Japan and 20 globally; its Wednesday evening show will mark its European debut after a decade of presentations in Tokyo. Soshiotsuki, known for his East-meets-West tailoring, will show at 3 p.m. on Thursday. This Pitti appearance is the next step in the designer’s mission to expand further in the West, following a strategic deal with brand incubator Tomorrow last November and a major Zara collaboration at the end of last year.
On Tuesday afternoon, the family-run Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico will collaborate with Sebiro Sanpo, organizers of the Japanese Suit Walk, to bring the event to the streets of Florence. Approximately 100 influencers will walk through the city showcasing suits made with the mill’s renowned fabrics—promising to be quite a spectacle.
Elsewhere, Pitti mainstay Brunello Cucinelli will host several events, including a dinner, a presentation, and a talk by Mr. Cucinelli in collaboration with Mr Porter. The fair will also launch its HiBeauty fragrance space, designed for buyers looking to incorporate fragrance into their fashion concept store assortments.
The variety andThe mix of mass, luxury, and premium brands at Pitti Uomo is drawing buyers. “Given the many buyers from around the world who have confirmed their attendance in Florence next week, we expect them to focus on ‘the product’ in the truest sense,” says Antonio Cristaudo, chief sales and development officer at Pitti Immagine. He explains that buyers are looking to invest in good-value clothing rather than high-priced avant-garde pieces. “Pitti Uomo fills the gap left by luxury brands by offering high-quality products with a strong price-to-quality ratio, which is what select retailers are seeking.”
Next, the focus shifts to Milan. Running from January 16 to 20, Milan Fashion Week Men’s will feature 18 physical shows and 36 presentations for the Fall/Winter 2026 collections. Against the backdrop of the Winter Olympics in nearby Cortina d’Ampezzo, highlights include a special appearance by American style icon Ralph Lauren, the return of powerhouse brand Zegna, and a packed presentation schedule.
Many of Milan’s top brands, including Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Tod’s, Canali, Etro, and Bally, will host runway shows. Zegna, one of Milan’s largest menswear brands by revenue, returns on Friday afternoon after a one-off show in Dubai for Spring/Summer 2026. DSquared2 also makes its comeback on Friday night, following a two-season break after its high-energy Fall/Winter 2025 anniversary show last February. Chinese label Pronounce will celebrate its 10th anniversary with a show on Saturday, while Chinese sportswear brand Li-Ning will make an unexpected runway debut the same day with a show that “celebrates movement.”
Ralph Lauren returns to the Milan runway schedule more than 20 years after his European debut in the city in 2002. He will present an intimate, one-off menswear show on Friday evening at the marble palazzo that has served as the brand’s home since 1999. While the brand has successfully focused on scaling its womenswear division in recent years, menswear remains its largest business.
“Ralph Lauren has only presented two menswear runway shows before—in 2002 and 2006—so it’s thrilling to see his third on the opening day of Milan,” says Luke Leitch, Vogue’s chief international correspondent. “Prada is almost a default highlight in Milan, partly because it sets the tone for its womenswear collection the following month, but also because it typically includes a radical gesture or two.” Leitch also points to Dolce & Gabbana and Zegna as expected highlights, along with British representatives Paul Smith, Saul Nash, and Dunhill.
“In Milan, I’m looking forward to seeing the season’s creative direction and color palettes at Zegna and Canali, as well as the ever-evolving technical fabrics from Stone Island—all key brands for our customers heading into Fall/Winter 2026,” says Daniel Todd, buying director at Mr Porter. “The team will also be seeking exciting new brands at both Pitti and Milan to bring on in future seasons, complementing our global customer base.”
Once again, Gucci and Bottega Veneta are skipping men’s fashion week, opting instead for co-ed shows in February. Emporio Armani is also restructuring its calendar, integrating menswear into its womenswear shows starting this season. Giorgio Armani will present its first men’s show since the passing of Mr. Armani in September. “Leo Dell’Orco, who worked alongside Armani from 1977 onward, is now leading menswear, and I expect this collection to closely reflect the founder’s style and vision,” Leitch says.
Beyond the shows, attendees at Milan Fashion Week Men’s will have a busy schedule of presentations for Fall/Winter 2026, featuring brands like Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana, and Canali. “The most eagerly awaited presentation is Brunello Cucinelli, which remains the true lifestyle brand in terms of style and consistency,” says Tiziana Fausti, owner of 10 Corso.It’s also interesting to see many brands—particularly newer ones—placing a strong emphasis on garment performance, a theme that has grown in importance in recent years. For example, Stone Island has set up a large-scale installation with visual media artist Ken-Tonio Yamamoto as the backdrop for its new prototype collection. This collection features 100 pieces in 100 different colors, created using the brand’s air-blown lamination-on-knit technique. Meanwhile, Ferragamo will return to the men’s fashion calendar for the first time since 2019 with a presentation focused on footwear this Sunday.
As Leitch notes, “there will be a fair bit of Winter Olympics buzz to navigate” this season. EA7, the sportswear brand founded by Giorgio Armani, will host an event at its Milan store during MFW Men’s, tied to its role as the official partner and outfitter for the Italian team at the Milano Cortina 2026 Games. Additionally, the French label K-Way will present a three-day event called “Montagna Milano: The Alpine Club in Town,” in collaboration with Vogue and GQ. Open to the public, the event will feature panel discussions, workshops, and après-ski experiences. The premium French label The Frankie Shop will also take select attendees from fashion week to Cortina for an après-ski evening to celebrate its skiwear collection.
According to Fausti, this season’s MFW Men’s—with its blend of refined tailoring, performance wear, and ski-inspired styles—reflects the modern menswear consumer and their varied needs. “For Fall/Winter 2026, as always, we are looking for products with a distinctive identity. Clients want pieces that combine technical innovation with refined design: functional outerwear, cutting-edge fabrics, and construction focused on comfort and versatility.”
More on this topic:
5 Menswear Trend Predictions for Fall/Winter 2026
The New Rules of Menswear Influencing for 2026
6 Designers on What’s Ahead for Menswear in 2026
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about Pitti Uomo and Milan Mens Fashion Week serving as a guide to the FallWinter 2026 season
Beginner General Questions
1 Whats the difference between Pitti Uomo and Milan Fashion Week
Pitti Uomo is a massive international trade show in Florence where brands present their collections in booths to buyers and press Milan Fashion Week is a schedule of runway shows and presentations in Milan primarily for major luxury fashion houses to unveil their seasonal stories to the world
2 When do these events happen for FallWinter 2026
They typically occur backtoback in January 2026 Pitti Uomo is usually first followed immediately by Milan Mens Fashion Week Exact dates are announced closer to the events
3 Can anyone attend these events
No they are primarily trade events Attendance is restricted to industry professionals with official accreditation However Pitti Uomo has a more accessible atmosphere in the streets around the venue where many enthusiasts gather to see the street style
4 Why are they held so early FallWinter 2026 clothes wont be in stores for months
This is the fashion industrys buying cycle Retailers and press need to see collections about 6 months in advance to place orders plan editorial content and prepare for the seasons arrival in stores
5 What is street style at these events and why is it such a big deal
It refers to the outfits worn by attendees outside the shows For Pitti and Milan its a major platform where influencers buyers and fashion insiders showcase personal style often setting trends that are as influential as the runway shows themselves
Advanced IndustryFocused Questions