Ib Kamara and Donatella Versace awarded Duran Lantink the 2025 Woolmark Prize.

*Photo: GUINDANI*

“Thank you! It was important for me to be loud. I’ve never been one to stay quiet—always mixing things up and going all out. But now more than ever, it feels crucial to be radical. If we’re not pushing boundaries, then what’s the point?”

That was Duran Lantink’s reaction moments after receiving the Woolmark Prize in Milan, presented by Donatella Versace and Ib Kamara. They were among the judges for this year’s edition of fashion’s most prestigious and influential award, whose past winners (and finalists) include legends like Karl Lagerfeld, Valentino Garavani, and Yves Saint Laurent.

This year’s prize came with AU$300,000 (about $187,000), a sum that reflects Woolmark’s mission to promote Australian merino wool. As CEO John Roberts pointed out, the timing is critical—wool prices have dropped 40% since COVID, and production has fallen by 20% in the last two years.

*Finalists (from left to right): Luca Lin, ACT N°1, Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Balthazar and Ester of Ester Manas, Duran Lantink, Meryll Rogge, Michael Stewart of Standing Ground, Rachel Scott of Diotima, Raul Lopez of LUAR
Photo: Courtesy of the Woolmark Prize*

If anyone can bring fresh energy to wool right now, it’s Lantink. Since launching his brand in 2016, his work has consistently turned heads—from the viral “vagina pants” he designed for Janelle Monáe’s *Pynk* music video in 2018 to his rule-breaking runway shows since his Paris debut in 2023. His bold, unconventional approach has also made him a strong contender for creative director roles beyond his own label.

“Duran makes us excited about the future,” said Donatella Versace after presenting the award. “This was a very strong year for the Woolmark Prize. The decision was tough, but he was the clear winner.”

That might sound contradictory, but seeing the competition firsthand made it clear why. *Vogue* was invited to observe the 10-minute presentations by the eight finalists, each showcasing their designs and creative philosophies. While Lantink was undeniably deserving, the other contenders made the judges’ job incredibly difficult.

Every designer used the AU$60,000 Woolmark grant to create collections that were both strikingly original and deeply compelling. Luca Lin of ACT N°1 reimagined tailoring and outerwear with a free-spirited, politically charged approach. Rachel Scott of Diotima explored tension in materials, silhouettes, and styling, crafting pieces that reflected her Jamaican heritage—including a standout “leather jacket with fur collar” made from boiled, compacted merino wool.

“Whether you’re pregnant or on Ozempic, everything is possible at Ester Manas,” joked Ester Manas during her presentation with partner Balthazar Delepierre. Their innovative, size-inclusive designs, along with their playful chemistry, made their pitch unforgettable.

Then there was Louis Gabriel Nouchi, a self-described “obsessive” and former ANDAM Prize winner, whose literary-inspired take on nonconformist masculinity took an unexpected turn when his model stripped down his deadstock wool suit to reveal a Saint James sweater.

The competition was fierce, but Lantink’s radical vision ultimately stood out—proving, once again, that fashion thrives on boldness.Here’s the rewritten text in clear, natural English:

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The cream wool rib-knit underwear set the tone. “The brand strikes a balance between being armor and a shelter,” Nouchi explained.

Next was Raul Lopez of Luar, whose figure-hugging “sexy nun” knit dress featured a cut-out wimple that left the judges audibly stunned. “Molto bello,” Versace remarked. Alongside his intricate, autobiographical handmade pieces—what he called his “cuckoo-crazy” designs—Lopez also showcased “wool base layers for the Lululemon girls.”

The International Woolmark Prize jury included (from left to right) Tim Blanks, Woolmark CEO John Roberts, Danielle Goldberg, Simone Marchetti, Honey Dijon, Sinéad Burke, Donatella Versace, IB Kamara, Roopal Patel, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, and Alessandro Sartori.

Meryll Rogge, a former designer for Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, made a strong case for her independent brand, highlighting both its challenges and potential. Wool makes up about 30% of her revenue, and after her latest show, she noted strong sales. Yet, despite her outstanding work, her brand hasn’t fully taken off—though winning Woolmark could be the breakthrough it deserves.

Michael Stewart of Standing Ground shared his ambition to debut at Paris Couture next January. His meticulous craftsmanship shone in couture-level wool gowns, featuring hand-beaded details and wool-felt corsetry, which especially captivated Zegna’s materials expert, Alessandro Sartori.

Fashion thrives at the intersection of aesthetics and timing—and right now, Lantink’s vision perfectly captures the moment. Presenting second, he said, “I’ve always been obsessed with clothes. As a kid, I’d sneak into my mom’s room, steal her clothes, cut them up, and experiment.” Using his Woolmark grant, he created pieces for his Fall 2025 “Duranimal” collection, including a mind-bending “floating” checkered wool skirt and bold exoskeleton dresses knitted by traditional Dutch artisans in Amsterdam. “I’m all about shape, form, and pushing new ideas,” he explained.

Tonight, Lantink’s creativity proved unbeatable. But this was a standout Woolmark year—any finalist could have taken the prize.

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(Note: The photo captions have been omitted as requested, but the text remains faithful to the original.)