The Kenzo womenswear show felt like a surreal fever dream, blending the bizarre and the brilliant. Imagine André 3000 sitting quietly behind a pile of radishes, observing a coat made from a chaotic cluster of stuffed bunnies, all while the quirky British rock song “Rabbit” by Chas & Dave blared in the background. Yes, this actually happened, and my phone footage proves it. This was Kenzo’s first dedicated womenswear show since 2016, held at their Rue Vivienne headquarters, with Nigo overseeing the collection and show design, though he couldn’t attend due to scheduling conflicts. Instead, Joshua Bullen, the newly appointed design director, took the stage to explain the collection.
The collection was a mix of Nigo’s personal touches and shared influences with Bullen. From New Era caps to Jacob the Jeweler-inspired belts, the designs were self-referential and deeply personal. Their mutual love for punk and mod culture shone through in the tailored Harris tweed coats, checkerboard rompers, and cropped bomber jackets, all reflecting a DIY ethos. The shawl-collar evening jackets with fur cuffs channeled Johnny Rotten’s anti-establishment vibe, while balloon pants, kimono jackets, and floral prints paid homage to Kenzo’s heritage. The collection also played with layering, as camisoles peeked over woolen bloomers, adding a playful twist to underwear as outerwear.
The finale was a showstopper: oversized bunny coats in pink and blue poly-fur, including the infamous “bunny orgy” coat, brought a whimsical yet anarchic energy to the runway. The soundtrack, featuring Mobb Deep, Blondie, Patti Smith, and the Sex Pistols, mirrored the collection’s eclectic mix—bold, youthful, and unapologetically provocative. This return to womenswear in Kenzo’s Paris home was a vibrant celebration of creativity, rebellion, and fun, proving that fashion can be both wild and meaningful.