Charles Rosier and Augustinus Bader, the co-founders of Bader’s namesake skincare brand, are discussing their latest product—The Sunscreen—over a Zoom call. Bader’s fair skin hints at his sun-avoiding habits, while Rosier’s golden glow suggests frequent sunny getaways to places like the Caribbean and the South of France.

As they prepare to launch what Bader calls “the biggest innovation in sun protection since SPF was invented,” it’s only natural to ask: how do they personally use sunscreen?

“I haven’t been the biggest user,” admits Rosier, who prefers sun-soaked destinations like Tarifa, the Gulf of Naples, and the Aeolian Islands. “Let’s just say I’m more old-school—I like a little tan.”

Meanwhile, Bader, with his fair complexion and background as a cell biology expert at Leipzig University, avoided sunscreen for years due to concerns about toxic chemicals. Yet now, they both swear by their new product.

“This isn’t your typical SPF,” Bader explains, pointing to the sleek white bottle with rose-gold accents labeled “SPF 50.” After four years of development, their sunscreen aims to both protect and repair skin. “It’s a shield plus repair technology—a major innovation in SPF history,” he says. “Beyond blocking rays, it also targets inflammation.”

Augustinus Bader isn’t alone in this approach. After six years of research, Sisley has updated its suncare line with Sunleÿa Anti-Aging Facial Sun Care SPF 50+ (also available in SPF 30+), designed to shield elastin and collagen from UVA and glycation.

Are we finally learning to balance sun exposure—enjoying its benefits (like vitamin D) while protecting our skin? If so, does “sensible” mean more sunscreen or less? It’s hard not to be skeptical when brands push daily use, even in places where gray skies dominate for half the year. The global sunscreen market, worth over $11 billion in 2022, is projected to hit $16 billion by 2029—so the incentive to sell is clear.

Nuance is emerging, though. Sisley, for example, takes a measured approach on low-UV days—its All Day All Year moisturizer, a bestseller, uses encapsulated filters for protection without an official SPF rating. The brand also acknowledges that many still want a tan.

“The biggest mistake is rushing to tan without protecting against sunburn,” says Pauline Poussin, Sisley’s scientific communication manager. “That guarantees damage and speeds up aging. Be extra cautious at the start of a holiday.” Dermatologists also stress protection for retinol users or post-procedure skin.

But what about the “slather it on daily” crowd? “That’s terrible advice—it’s a bad habit,” says Professor Brian Diffey, a photobiology expert at Newcastle University. The creator of Boots’ star-rating system for sunscreens, Diffey has argued for nearly 20 years that indoor workers don’t need sunscreen when the UV index is low.For children three years old or younger, sunscreen isn’t recommended unless there’s a family history of melanoma, an autoimmune condition, or numerous moles. This guidance was reinforced in February 2024 by the Australia and New Zealand Journal of Public Health—a significant stance, given Australia’s world-leading skin cancer rates, which cost its healthcare system $1.7 billion annually.

So when should we use sunscreen? According to Diffey, only when sun exposure could be harmful. On a typical winter day—commuting to work or stepping out for lunch—you might get the equivalent of 45 seconds of summer sun exposure. On rainy days, it drops to about 15 seconds. “This amount is biologically insignificant,” he says.

And forget about sunscreens claiming protection from infrared or blue light from screens—it’s a non-issue. “The blue light exposure you get is negligible,” Diffey adds.

As for how much to apply? Most people don’t use enough. The standard lab-tested amount is 2 mg per square centimeter (the basis for SPF ratings), but in reality, people apply about half that. So an SPF 50 ends up performing closer to SPF 25. “A hat, clothing, and shade are far more effective than sunscreen,” Diffey notes.

Overusing certain sunscreens can expose you to questionable ingredients. While “clean beauty” claims often raise eyebrows, scientists have legitimate concerns. “Sunscreens can cause skin reactions, and some ingredients are absorbed into the bloodstream,” Diffey explains. “They’re likely not highly harmful, but we don’t know for sure. Mineral sunscreens with nanoparticles (like titanium or zinc dioxide) may pose risks—so if you go mineral, choose non-nano formulas.”

In the U.S., sunscreen regulation lags—the FDA hasn’t approved a new ingredient since 2006 and has flagged 12 existing ones as unsafe or ineffective. This has led brands like Augustinus Bader to create separate mineral sunscreens for the U.S. market. “Too much sun causes damage, but chemical toxicity isn’t ideal either,” Bader says. “The sun is a double-edged sword.”

The bottom line? Choose your protection wisely. How will you approach yours?