You can’t judge a book by its cover—or a fashion collection by its title. Andrea Mary Marshall’s Fall 2025 line, named *Elizabeth*, proves this perfectly. While nodding to the famous English queen, the collection is anything but a literal tribute, marking a bold evolution from the designer’s more narrowly focused spring debut.

After graduating from Parsons, Marshall built a fine art practice rooted in self-portraiture while working fashion jobs she describes as temporary—”the kind I didn’t have to get too attached to,” she admitted at a preview. “I’d cry in the bathroom all day, then go home and make art. But that experience gave me this weirdly deep production knowledge.” She put it to use in 2021 when she launched *Salon 1884* exclusively with Neiman Marcus—a polished brand offering sharp tailoring, flawless black dresses (a nod to Sargent’s *Madame X*), and a hint of kink.

Yet Marshall wasn’t fully satisfied. *Salon 1884* reflected her minimalist personal style, but she wanted more. “It’s what I’d wear, but not what comes *out* of me,” she explained. So she returned to the fundamentals, studying pattern-making—a skill that, she says, “changed my life. Now I can make the clothes I’ve always wanted.” That creative freedom birthed her eponymous label.

Channeling the Virgin Queen in today’s fashion landscape takes guts. While the collection features dramatic Elizabethan touches—dresses with 30+ yards of starched lace, corset busks—it’s far from delicate. Marshall drew inspiration from Roy Strong’s biography, noting Elizabeth I often wore black because it was both costly and traditionally masculine. A standout piece—a rain-resistant cotton trench with slashed sleeves revealing Loro Piana cashmere lining—embodies that swagger.

The most regal looks include a black strapless “Lilibet” dress with a Chantilly lace collar and pearls, and the lace-trimmed “Izzie” bodice, a curtsy to Vivienne Westwood. Marshall also riffed on Zandra Rhodes’ 1977 *Conceptual Chic* with safety-pin dresses—here reimagined with custom fastenings and hand-knotted pearls.

British references abound: trenches, brothel creepers, punk studs, New Romantic lace. But what truly elevates the collection are the unexpected, feminized Teddy Boy influences—like a jacket with ivory satin lapels and lace dripping from Western seams, or a plaid suit with strong shoulders and a corseted front. The tailoring strikes a boyish balance to the femme-fatale dresses, some cut from custom leopard alpaca that Marshall calls “’90s Kate Moss meets Elizabeth I.”

“I used to draw Elizabeth as half-goddess, half-queen,” Marshall said. “I wanted her to feel animalistic—exaggerated, larger than life.” This collection might just inspire you to face the world with the same ferocity.