This weekend, designer Michael Rider unveiled his spring 2027 menswear show for Celine in Paris—and it was quite the event. Just as exciting as his collection of modern, cool pieces was the front row watching it all. It was packed with icons like Grace Jones, BTS’s Kim Taehyung, Oscar Isaac, and legendary theater critic and New Yorker writer Hilton Als, among others. Below, Als shares his exclusive take on the collection with Vogue.
“Like everyone else, I’ve been interested in Celine for a long time. I was a friend of Joan Didion’s; of course, Juergen Teller shot his now-famous campaign featuring the great American writer. So when Michael Rider and his team invited me, I have to admit that, besides admiring the beauty of his work, I had visions of becoming the new Joan Didion dancing in my head. (But alas, and wonderfully, there’s only one Joan, both on and off the page. You can’t replicate that look.)
A long time ago, Tina Brown, then editor of the New Yorker, had me write a piece on young British designers. The first couture show I attended was Alexander McQueen’s [Givenchy show]. I remember the whole auditorium felt edged in gold; I recall golden angel wings and the feeling of white tunics. I don’t know the exact date, but as a piece of total theater, it was so graceful and otherworldly that I never forgot it.
Photo: Julien Mignot
I was deeply moved by how well the Celine team took care of us. The tents were beautifully airy, and the clothes reflected that same ease and grace. I’m someone who loves cardigans no matter the season, and I found Michael’s use of fabric especially inspiring. In fact, I really loved the wonderful Arabian Nights-style pants and capes. I felt those pieces were objects of transport—they took us to another dimension.
[I see a lot of parallels between fashion and theater.] Both belong to what the French call le spectacle—the spectacle. Fashion opens our eyes to the present—to bodies moving through space, dressed creatively. Actors on stage dress for their characters, of course, but like fashion, they show us what humans look like and how we affect each other. Designers like Michael want to affect us too. That’s a wonderful philosophy. Fashion never fails to open my eyes to color and form.”
Photo: Julien Mignot
“[In the front row,] I have to say I was really taken with Grace Jones’s suit, and my own brown twill trousers. Each was a—spectacle!—in terms of the quality of the fabric and how it feels against your body. Such luxury and comfort! [My outfit] made me feel wrapped in love: the beautiful crisp white shirt, the trousers, the beige jumper. I’m drawn to simplicity. Clarity of purpose. Elegance in execution, and a great sense of color: all the things Michael brings to Celine.”
Photo: Julien Mignot
Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about Hilton Alss recap of the Celine mens show written in a natural tone with clear answers
General Beginner Questions
1 Who is Hilton Als and why should I care about his opinion on a fashion show
Hilton Als is a Pulitzer Prizewinning writer and theater critic for The New Yorker Hes known for his sharp poetic and deeply cultural observations When he writes about a fashion show hes not just describing the clotheshes connecting them to art identity and society
2 What exactly is a recap of a fashion show
Its a written summary and analysis of a runway presentation Unlike a simple list of outfits a recap explores the mood the music the venue the models and the designers intentions It tells you what the show meant not just what it looked like
3 Did Hilton Als actually attend the Celine mens show
Yes As a critic he typically attends major shows in person His recap is based on firsthand observation of the collection the setting and the atmosphere
4 Is the recap a review or just a description
Its a critical review Hilton Als is known for being honest and sometimes provocative He will praise what works but hes also not afraid to point out when a collection feels hollow derivative or misses its mark
5 Whats the main thing people talk about when they mention his Celine recap
Usually its his ability to turn the show into a cultural story He often connects the clothes to broader themes like masculinity loneliness or the state of the world People quote his lines because theyre so insightful
Advanced Deeper Questions
6 How does Alss background as a theater critic affect his fashion writing
Its a huge influence He treats a runway show like a play He analyzes the set the actors the script and the director He looks for narrative character and emotional truth